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Manaus - Wikipedia

Please refresh the page and retry. The mighty 4,mile-long Amazon River is on the verge of spilling on to my lap.

Water levels are the highest on record and as our dugout canoe, narrow as a carved toothpick, floats through a canopy of entwined treetops, I keep a watchful eye on the Coca-Cola-coloured Layd lapping at the rim of our boat. The wood is etched with spear-tip scratches and pearlescent fish scales are scattered around my feet.

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We can hear their cackles up ahead, but are distracted by the Mahaus of pink river dolphins as they surface beside us. For those who do venture deeper, sights of the wildlife are highly unreliable. To find out, I have joined a new day tour run by Naturetrek, which is pioneering a new approach.

Amazon river cruises are on small boats that can navigate the waters. A clump of lily-pad roots floats past, reminding me there are creatures below. Taking pictures of us from above are our other guides: We chug upstream for a few hours and decamp, in the afternoon, into the three small green boats Fortes has tethered to the stern of the Iracema.

Almost immediately Estrela spots a three-toed sloth lounging in the upper arms of a tall tree. Further on we see a green iguana, then a canary-winged parakeet, then a prehistoric hoatzin a little bit like a pheasant with its punk-rocker hairstyle, while in the background the ghoulish growls of howler monkeys echo across the forest.

Night creeps in as if a dimmer switch Lady in front of me at Manaus tree being slowly Lay up and the palm trees, splayed like feather dusters, are silhouetted against the pinkening sky.

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Pavarotti wakes us at 5am. Skipper Fortes is playing his rousing rendition of Rigoletto loudly over the crackling speaker system.

Within 30 minutes, we are all in the green boats and setting out to explore the biodiverse Anavilhanas Archipelago National Park, a hard-to-solve riddle of river channels and islands that need expert navigation. All is silent save for the soft chirrup of insects and the gurgle and dribble of the paddle propelling our canoe through the narrow channels.

As I stand up carefully to take a picture, I notice a swirl of brown in the floating leaf litter. Guests cluster to take a closer look, but the reptile writhes like twisted rope into the murky water.

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They come right down next to the boat — one straining so hard to get a better look at us that it topples off Lzdy branch into the river. Their pounds and dollars are proof to the locals that the wildlife is of real value.

Another example is swimming with pink river dolphins.

Lady in front of me at Manaus tree

There are one or two simple outfits along the Rio Negro offering the chance to swim with the dolphins: Pink river dolphins are endangered as their meat is a delicacy in some cuisines.

There is still one creature that has eluded us, so as we navigate back through the Anavilhanas archipelago we keep our binoculars wt on the tree line. And then we see her. Perched in the soft afternoon sun on a skeletal tree rocketing above the canopy, a harpy eagle — the most powerful predator in the world.

Lady in front of me at Manaus tree

Mating pairs only raise one chick every three years, with the infant staying in the nest for a Lonely want nsa Pueblo cheeky 22 months. Protecting them from deforestation is key. We have to lower the binoculars, put the lens cap back on the camera, and just look.

That evening Lady in front of me at Manaus tree river is still, the riverfront trees perfectly reflected in the water, as if admiring themselves in a mirror. Looking out across the endless stretch of tangled leaves, it strikes me that perhaps the Amazon should — and hopefully Manaux — remain an enigma: Despite all the research, the drones and the human interaction, really there is no knowing this Old Woman River.

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Emma Thomson travelled to the Amazon as a guest of Naturetrek ; naturetrek. Manaue in take place from JuneJune and August We urge you to turn off your ad blocker for The Telegraph website so that you can continue to access our quality content in the future.

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